Dalarna - The Heart Of Sweden

Even though Sweden is known for its vibrant and metropolitan capital, the country is quite different outside of the few big cities it has. As soon as visitors go out of the commonly visited places like Stockholm, Gothenburg or Malmö, it is easy for them to understand that the true spirit of Sweden is quite rural. In fact, more than 70% of the country is covered by forest. Apart from all those woods, what visitors can expect are occasional small towns showing up along the way - and there are huge areas without any when you head up North.

That can sound quite daunting, but not everything is dark endless forests in this Nordic country. For those willing to explore Sweden further than most tourists do, there are many enchanting places waiting to be discovered. In the region of Dalarna, Nature and charming swedish towns blend perfectly, in what is known as the most characteristic county in the whole country. The region promotes itself as "Home of Midsummer and the Dala Horse", which is a perfect teaser of the unique experiences that the region has to offer.

If you got a taste for discovering Sweden's true character, here are some of the most beautiful places to visit in Dalarna.

Mora

If you are visiting Mora during winter, you might get lucky enough to catch one of the events it is most famous for: Vasaloppet. Starting in Sälen, a town close to the border between Sweden and Norway, and finishing in Mora, the popular Vasaloppet is known as the World's biggest and oldest cross-country ski race. With a maximum capacity of almost 16.000, everyone can participate - from beginners to experienced skiers, the Vasaloppet is a wonderful mix of many different people who come together to take part of a 90 kms-long challenge.

This World-famous ski race started in 1922 and it has an interesting History. In the 16th century, the infamous Christian the Tyrant (King of Denmark, Sweden and Norway) invited many of the Swedish nobles who opposed him to a meeting in Stockholm. In an atrocious move to silence them, that meeting turned into the famous Stockholm Bloodbath where Christian II ordered their assassination. The parents of Gustav Vasa were assassinated during Stockholm's Bloodbath and after that he had to flee the King's troops.

Fearing for his life, Gustav Vasa headed to Dalarna where he spoke to the men of Mora at an Historically famous gathering (depicted in a mural at Uppsala's Cathedral), in an attempt to convince them to rebel against the King. Since he didn't manage to convince them, Vasa fled towards Norway where he would try to seek refuge. Luckily though, after hearing that taxes were about to be raised, the men of Mora changed their minds and decided to join Gustav Vasa in a rebellion against the King. In order to catch him and let him know they had changed their minds, the two best skiers in Dalarna's county were sent after him. They were Lars and Engelbrekt, two brothers from the town of Mora, who caught up with Gustav Vasa 90 kms away from Mora: in the town of Sälen.

Gustav Vasa was later crowned King of Sweden, defeating Christian the Tyrant and turning Sweden into a free and independent nation.

Nowadays, every year people from several different nationalities compete at this special race that is based on such an interesting part of Sweden's History. Marking the finish line in Mora, there is a portal stating I fäders spår för framtids segrar ('In [our] fathers' tracks for future victories'), which has become a landmark of the city.

Apart from the portal, visitors who want to learn more about Vasaloppet can head to the Vasalopp's Museum which stands right next to it.

Vasaloppet's finish line in Mora

Another popular attraction in the city of Mora is the Zorngården. There, visitors can see the impressive house of the famous Swedish painter Anders Zorn and learn more about his fascinating life. Even though he was born in a humble family, his talents allowed him to become a very renowned artist even on an internationally level, where he was considered one of the best portrait painters. That was what allowed him to finance all the ahead-of-time luxuries that he and his wife incorporated in their house, like central heating, a refrigerator, hot and cold running water and even a vacuum cleaner.

Apart from that he was also a renowned painter of nudes and watercolors, which can nowadays be admired at the Zorn Museum also in the town of Mora, where the largest collection of his works is exhibited.

Visits to the house are only available through guided tours and there is at least one tour in English every day.

Zorngården in Mora

Another beautiful place that Anders Zorn built in the city of Mora, around a 15 minutes walk away from his house, is the Zorn Gammelgård. This old farm was established by the painter himself in 1914 and it can nowadays be explored by visitors - during the summer season - as a beautiful open-air museum. In a wonderful trip to the past, visitors can see and experience what a typical swedish village would have looked like, by walking around the open-air museum and even entering the houses to see how people used to live in Dalarna. Boasting 40 historical wooden buildings and even the oldest wooden cabin in Sweden (dating back to 1237), it is considered Sweden's most important collection of old wooden cabins.

At the Textilkammaren (textile museum), next to the Zorn Gammelgård, visitors can see some of the beautiful costumes and folk textiles that belonged to Emma and Anders Zorn.

Rättvik

Located 50 kms away from the county's capital of Falun, Rättvik attracts many tourists for several different reasons.

When the first Hotel built for touristic purposes was built in the town in the 19th century, Långbryggan (swedish for long pier) was built as well in order to make it possible for the tourists to come onboard the increasingly popular steamboats. Nowadays there are sadly no steamboats in sight, but visitors can still take a relaxing walk down the bridge and admire the peaceful views over the Siljan lake. At more than 600 meters of length, it is considered to be the World's longest lake pier.

While standing at the pier and admiring the views, notice a white building at the shore across the water. It is Rättviks Kyrka (Rättviks Church) and with its beautiful interior as well as the several old wooden cabins surrounding it, it is well worth a visit.

Rättvik's Church

Another reason why Rättvik is on the touristic map is due to one of the most unique open air theatres in Europe. It is called Dalhalla - Google it, you will see what I mean.

Located in the middle of the woods outside of Rättvik, it used to be a limestone quarry but when Margareta Dellefors noticed how great acoustics the place had, she realized the potential it had to become one of the most spectacular open-air arenas ever built.

Open every summer for music concerts and hosting 4000 people in one of the most breathtaking sceneries out there, Dalhalla is an extremely popular attraction in the municipality of Rättvik.

Even if you are not interested in watching a concert at the arena, you can still visit this special place by booking a guided tour here.

Another unique experience that visitors can have in Rättvik is to take part of the Midsummer celebrations there. As I have written before and will write more about, Midsummer is a big deal in Sweden - many claim that it is the de facto National Day. If you are in Sweden during Midsummer and your only option is to see the Midsummer celebrations in a big city like Stockholm, that's better than nothing. But what you really want to do is to experience the traditional celebrations done in Dalarna's small towns, like Rättvik. There you will be able to see plenty of people dressed in traditional costumes, entering the celebrations while riding their horses at the sound of traditional songs and surrounded by genuinely old Historical wooden houses. That Midsummer atmosphere is something that just has to be experienced in order to be understood.

Midsummer at Rättviks gammelgård

Tällberg

A short 15-minutes drive from Rättvik, visitors can find the picturesque village of Tällberg.

Even though there are no major attractions or landmarks in the small village, a trip there is a perfect way to see and experience Dalarna's true spirit. With charming wooden houses popping up at every corner and an outstanding view of the Lake Siljan, the sleepy village of Tällberg is a perfect example of what Dalarna is all about. Like the town advertises itself: "To visit Sweden and Dalarna without visiting Tälberg is like going to a wedding without seeing the bride".

What in the beginning of the 20th century started as a small farmer's village in the middle of Dalarna's countryside, has developed into one of the most picturesque places in the whole country, attracting plenty of people looking to experience its charm. Even though the tiny village only has around 200 permanent residents, an additional 400 people have summer cottages there and there are eight Hotels to host the many tourists going there every summer to admire the view and the town's picturesque atmosphere.

A nice place to visit in the town is Holens Gammelgård, which is the home of Gustav Ankarcrona - an architect, artist and enthusiastic collector of old farm items. In the beautiful surroundings composed of old wooden buildings, visitors can see Gustav's working room and atelier, with plenty of interesting items he collected during his life.

There is a café at the Gammelgård, where guests can enjoy a relaxing coffe-break with beautiful views over Lake Siljan, and during the summer months there are English guided tours on request.

While you are in Tällberg, make sure to have a Fika in one of the many cozy cafés, like the charming Dalmål Kafé & Hantverk or Bagarstugans Gårdscafé.

Sundborn

A mere 15 minutes-drive from Falun, the capital of Dalarna, there is the absolutely lovely town of Sundborn. Last time they counted, the town didn't even have 800 habitants - that's how tiny it is. But that just adds to its incredible charm.

I won't pretend there's much to do in the town but, funnily enough, the extremely famous Carl Larsson-gården is located there. In what now is a Museum, tourists can visit Lilla Hyttnäs - the house where the famous painter Carl Larsson lived with his wife and their eight children, after his father-in-law offered it to them in 1888. Entering the house, visitors will pass under the lovely sign saying "Var välkommen kära du, till Carl Larsson och hans fru!" (Be welcome, dear you, to Carl Larsson and his wife!) and enter the world of Carl Larsson. With furniture and objects arranged as if the couple still lived there, the house takes visitors back in time and to a Universe where not much else matters, other than the cozy and peaceful life they must have lived there. With Carl's wife, Karin Larsson, being considered a decorating genius way ahead of her time, no wonder the house looks like and feels like a magical place.

Outside their house, visitors nowadays can also explore the beautiful gardens that were recreated to resemble the outdoor area that inspired the couple so much throughout their lives. Being branded as "Sweden's most famous garden" really does it justice - attracting countless tourists every year, this really is one of the most special places to visit in the whole county.

If you go to Sundborn and visit the unique Carl Larsson-gården, it is understandable that you become overwhelmed by such an exceptional place. But make sure you don't forget to take a moment and admire the postcard-like little village that it is a part of. With the picturesque red wooden houses overlooking the peaceful canal passing through the town, this is as swedish as it gets.

A beautiful day in Sundborn, Dalarna

Säter

The beautiful town of Säter is known by the swedes mostly for being the home of an infamous mental Hospital. Established in 1912 as one of Sweden's biggest and most modern mental hospitals, Säters Mentalsjukhus was so dynamic and self-sustainable that it even had its own chapel, cemetery and railway. Nowadays the cemetery is located at the center of the Golf Course that is located right next to the Hospital.

It was obviously a place of much suffering during the years, but nowadays visitors can learn more about the Hospital and its patients in the Mentalvårdsmuseet (Mental Care Museum).

At the center of the town, visitors can see the beautiful Säters Kyrka (Säter's Church) and walk along the picturesque streets to enjoy the atmosphere of a sleepy and charming town in the middle of Sweden. Walking down the quaint main street (Storgatan), visitors will come to the town's main square - Rådhustorget Säter. Surrounded by cozy local cafés and restaurants, this is the square where the charming small City Hall (Rådhus) is located.

The beautiful streets of Säter's city center

After exploring the lovely town center, visitors can head to Hembygdsmuseet Åsgårdarna (Säter's Parish Museum) where they will be able to explore a collection of charming old wooded houses in true Dalarna style. With 23 buildings composed in a village-like design, some of the oldest ones date back to the 1600s. With a mint master's cottage, a pottery, a carpenters cottage and even a chapel, the houses are a perfect way for visitors to experience and learn more about the professions that were relevant in the town back in the day.

As usual in Sweden, during the summer the open-air museum comes back to life after a sleepy winter, and visitors can enjoy several events as well as a café.

Hedemora

Another one of Dalarna's beautiful cities is Hedemora. At a mere 20-minutes drive from Säter, it is the perfect way to finish your trip in Dalarna.

With a population of slightly over 7.000, Hedemora is small but well worth a visit. It was granted its city rights in 1446, making it the oldest city in the county. With buildings dating back to the 14th century, it is a perfect place to explore what is the only medieval city in Dalarna.

The city has been badly damaged by big fires twice: in 1754 and later in 1849. Of the 110 houses lots in the city, 90 of them were destroyed by the first fire. What at the time was a catastrophe, later brought positive consequences because it allowed the city to be rebuilt using a more modern structure.

Nowadays visitors can still explore the medieval History of the city, by admiring the oldest buildings still standing: the Town Hall, the Theatre and the Church.

The Town Hall is located at Stora Torget, the beautiful coble square at the heart of the city. It is also there that visitors will be able to find what probably is the most famous and charming café in the whole city: Café Wahlman. With a beautiful old-fashioned style and decoration, guests will be able to enjoy a relaxing coffee break either in the cozy space indoors or in the popular inner-yard.

Stora Torget and its surrounding buildings in Mora

Right next to the main square and adjacent to the café, there is also a beautiful garden that is worth a visit: Apoteksträdgården.

Apoteksträdgården in Hedemora

The Theater, dating back to 1820, is Sweden's oldest theatre of its kind and nowadays it is a museum as well.

Located just a short walk away from the main square, the Church is Hedemora's oldest building, dating back to the 13th century.

Hedemora's Church

When you are done exploring the city center of Hedemora, make your way to the city's outskirts and visit yet another charming open-air museum: Hedemora Gammelgård. Having been inaugurated in 1915, it is one of the oldest open-air museums in the whole country and it enjoys a privileged location overlooking the Lake Hönsan. There, visitors can enjoy a coffee at the summer café, as well as they will get the opportunity to go inside the historical buildings and see the old items exhibited.

Hedemora Gammelgård: an open-air museum in Hedemora

With so many beautiful and interesting places to visit in the county of Dalarna, I hope that you will consider going there if you are ever in Sweden. Being so different dependent on the season, Dalarna is a precious swedish treasure no matter if it is covered in powdery-white snow or if the sun is shinning in all its glory.